Help – My Puppy Won’t Stop Biting Me!
Updated: Aug 26
How to teach your puppy what to bite, how to play appropriately, and why tug can help.
Why Puppies Bite
Puppies bite for lots of perfectly normal reasons. Their mouths are how they experience the world. They don’t have hands, so they pick things up, carry them, investigate new objects, and play using their mouths.
When they’re with their littermates, they learn vital lessons about bite pressure—those sharp little teeth quickly teach them what’s too hard when a sibling yelps or stops playing.
Once they move into their new home, we become their playmates. That means we also become the ones responsible for continuing their bite‑inhibition education. This is especially important for “singleton” puppies who grew up without siblings; they may arrive with very little understanding of how hard is too hard if they've had fewer opportunities to learn from other dogs.
Biting and chewing also serve other important functions:
Teething relief – chewing helps soothe sore gums
Jaw strengthening – working those jaw muscles is part of healthy development
Stress reduction – chewing is a natural self‑soothing behaviour
Boredom relief – puppies need outlets for their energy and curiosity
So yes—biting is normal. But that doesn’t mean you have to tolerate teeth on skin.
You're not trying to stop the puppy from using its mouth. You're teaching it where its mouth belongs.
How Do I Stop My Puppy Biting Me?
One of the most common reasons puppies bite is play.
Almost every new puppy owner goes through this phase, and yes, it can hurt. But the very first rule is crucial:
Do NOT punish your puppy for biting.
If you punish your puppy for trying to play with you, you risk damaging your relationship before it’s even begun. Instead, your job is to teach them what to bite and how to play appropriately.
Don't rely on squealing like a puppy. The squealing may startle them or just excite them further. SHOUTING NO at your puppy at best is ineffective. It is not teaching them how to play appropriately and you risk your puppy not wanting to play with you at all or it can make them frustrated and bite harder.
Interactive Play Is Essential
You need toys that are used specifically for playing with your puppy—not toys you toss on the floor and walk away from. Puppies love movement, reaction, and engagement.
Think about what makes your hands and feet so appealing:
They move unpredictably
They squeal or react when grabbed
They’re attached to their favourite person
Your slippers shuffle across the floor. Your dressing‑gown cord swings invitingly. Your hands pull away when nipped. All of this is brilliant fun for a puppy.
So your goal is simple:
**Make your hands, feet, and clothing boring.
Make the toys exciting. **
If your hand is holding a long, soft, wiggly toy that dances away as your puppy grabs for it—and you respond with happy, playful sounds—that toy becomes far more fun than your fingers.
If your feet are in sturdy shoes and moving slowly, while a fleece tug toy bounces around like a small animal, your puppy is much more likely to choose the toy.
When one of my own puppies was 8–9 weeks old, I spent two full weeks carrying a long, soft giraffe toy everywhere I walked around the house. Every time that little mouth came looking for my ankles, dressing gown or hands, the giraffe appeared instead.”
How to Play Tug With Your Puppy
Tug is one of the best games you can play with a puppy. It teaches bite control, builds confidence, strengthens your bond, and gives your puppy a brilliant outlet for all that natural grabbing and chasing behaviour. Here’s how to teach it safely and successfully.
1. Choose the Right Tug Toy
Use a long, soft, flexible toy—something that keeps your puppy’s teeth away from your hands:
· Fleece plaits
· Long soft tug toys
· A knotted towel
· Anything easy to grip and gentle on puppy teeth
Long toys also help prevent accidental nips on your skin.
2. Animate the Toy – Don’t Present It
Place the toy near the ground and bring it to life:
· Wiggle it
· Drag it away
· Make it bounce or slither like prey
Avoid pushing the toy into your puppy’s face. Tug should feel like a chase, not a confrontation.
As your puppy goes to grab it, let them catch it and begin a gentle tug.
3. Encourage the Tug
Once your puppy has hold of the toy:
· Gently tug and release
· Cheer them on
· Keep the game light and fun
With young puppies, avoid strong pulling. Their teeth and jaws are still developing, so let them “win” frequently.
4. Let Them Win (A Lot!)
Winning is the best part of tug for puppies. It builds confidence and keeps the game exciting.
When your puppy wins:
· Let go of the toy
· Celebrate with a happy “Yes!” or “Good puppy!”
· Move backwards to encourage them to bring the toy back
· Re‑engage the game by grabbing the end again
If your puppy tends to run off with the toy, play in a smaller area or use two toys. When they win Toy A, animate Toy B so it becomes more fun than the “dead” toy they’re holding.
5. Introduce the Rules of the Game
Once your puppy understands the basic tug pattern, you can start teaching cues.
Teaching “Tug Tug” (Start the Game)
Hold the toy still against your body so it becomes “dead.” When your puppy releases it:
· Mark the release with YES
· Immediately animate the toy again
· Say your cue: “Tug Tug!”
This teaches your puppy that the cue means “grab the toy and play.”
Teaching “Drop” (Release the Toy)
When your puppy is consistently releasing the dead toy:
· Hold the toy still
· Say “Drop”
· Reward the release with praise and restart the game
Over time, your puppy learns:
· TUG = start the game
· DROP = release the toy
. Let your puppy win frequently. Winning keeps the game exciting and helps build confidence and enthusiasm for playing with you.
When you’re ready to end the session, finish on a DROP, then give a food reward so your puppy clearly understands the game is over.
6. What If My Puppy Catches My Skin?
Some puppies get very enthusiastic and may accidentally nip your hands. A few tips:
· Use longer toys to create more distance·
If your puppy bites skin instead of the toy, pause the game by calmly removing the toy and walking away for around 30 seconds.
To a puppy, this is a very clear consequence: “What just happened? I was playing, and now the fun has gone.”
After the short break, you can try again. If they bite the toy, the game continues. If they bite your skin again, the game disappears again.
Over repeated games, your puppy starts to understand the rule: teeth on the toy make the game happen; teeth on my person make the game stop.
The 30-second walk-away isn't a punishment. It's the natural consequence of the behaviour.
· If your puppy persists in grabbing you instead of the toy, use a barrier such as a baby gate or puppy pen to create some distance.
This is especially helpful if you have children that want to be involved but cannot help but react to puppy bites.
Once your puppy understands the cues and the structure of the game, accidental nips usually disappear.
The Tug Game in a Nutshell
· Animate the toy → let puppy catch it
· Tug gently → let them win often
· Teach “Tug Tug” to start
· Teach “Drop” to release
· End the game on a Drop + food reward
· Pause the game if teeth touch skin
Tug becomes a powerful tool for teaching bite inhibition during play, because it gives your puppy a very clear rule: teeth on the toy keep the game going; teeth on human skin pause the game.
Your puppy isn't being punished for biting—they're simply learning that skin isn't part of the game. This gives them a reason to control where they put their mouth while still allowing them to express all that natural grabbing, chasing and tugging behaviour.
PLAYING is an essential part of your puppy’s development, and you really want to cash in on the fact your puppy wants to play with you. A puppy that loves to play is a puppy that is easy to train. It builds connection, focus and you can use a game of tug or a throw of their favourite toy as a reward when teaching new behaviours. A dog that wants to play with you wants to be with you and that gives you a solid foundation for recall.
Practical Management Helps Too
Sometimes you need to remove the temptation entirely:
Slippers go in the wardrobe
Dressing gowns get swapped for fleece tops
Loose cords, tassels, and floaty fabrics stay out of reach
This isn’t forever—just until your puppy has learned which objects are theirs and which are not.
When You Can’t Play: Using Management to Prevent Puppy Biting
As much as we’d love to spend all day playing tug and keeping our puppies entertained, real life gets in the way. Cooking dinner, answering a phone call, or simply relaxing in the evening are not compatible with a puppy hanging off the end of a toy. This is where management becomes essential.
Management isn’t a failure—it’s a vital part of raising a puppy. It keeps everyone safe, prevents bad habits from forming, and gives your puppy appropriate outlets when you’re not available to play.
1. Use Naptimes Wisely
If you’re crate‑training your puppy, a predictable schedule is your best friend. When your puppy is due for a nap, that’s your window for:
Cooking
Phone calls
Tidying
Anything that requires your hands and attention
Over‑tired puppies are often mouthier, more irritable, and less able to cope, so protecting those naps is crucial. A well‑rested puppy is far easier to live with.
2. Create a Safe, Puppy‑Proofed Space
Outside of naps, your puppy still needs time where they’re supervised but not physically attached to you. A secure area allows them to explore, chew, and play safely while you get things done.
Great options include:
A puppy playpen
A gated‑off section of a room
Room dividers (especially helpful if you have children or other dogs who sometimes need space)
This setup lets your puppy see you and feel included, but prevents them from grabbing clothing, feet, or household items.
3. Provide Appropriate Chews and Puzzles
When you’re not actively playing, your puppy still needs something to do. Chewing and problem‑solving are natural, calming behaviours that help them settle.
Ideal options include:
Kongs stuffed with food
Filled hooves
Chew toys designed for teething
Treat puzzles that encourage independent play
These items:
Fulfil your puppy’s need to chew
Soothe teething discomfort
Reduce boredom
Prevent destructive habits like chewing furniture or skirting boards
Teach your puppy what they are allowed to chew
This is especially important during the critical learning phase when puppies are forming lifelong habits.
4. Management Isn’t a Substitute for Play—It Complements It
Interactive play, particularly structured games such as tug, teaches your puppy how to use their mouth appropriately during play, builds your relationship, and gives them an outlet for natural behaviours.. But management fills the gaps when play isn’t possible.
Together, they create a balanced routine where your puppy learns:
When play happens
When rest happens
What they can chew
How to entertain themselves safely
How to cope when you’re not available
This structure is the foundation of a calm, confident, well‑mannered dog.
We are teaching our puppy what to bite rather than simply stopping biting.
When Puppy Biting Isn't Just Normal Puppy Biting
Most puppy biting is exactly that—puppy behaviour. But if biting is accompanied by repeated stiffening, guarding, intense fear, escalating aggression or bites that appear unrelated to play, it's worth getting professional help rather than simply treating it as a training problem.
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